The Warners Take Over Botswana!

Back at the end of June I was fortunate to have my family come to visit . When I say my family, I mean my WHOLE family;  my Mom, Dad and two Brothers. I was very excited for this trip. We started planning for it back in January. Since then I had been preparing and eagerly anticipating their arrival. Ever since I was young my family has gone on trips together. We've been a lot of places all over the US. Each trip in itself brings back many memories of camping, long car rides, seeing great sights, and experiencing awesome things. Unfortunately we haven't had a full family vacation since 2003. This has been due to me and my older brother, getting older and moving on with our lives and not really having the time or money to go on vacation with the family. But this year that would change. This year would embark the trip of a lifetime. The best family vacation ever to Botswana!

As my Mom and I planned the trip over the months, I became quiet nervous and stressed. Originally we were supposed to spend a week in Botswana and the fly up to Egypt, but because of the turmoil in Egypt the flight tickets became cancelled, and now we would be spending the entire two weeks in and around Botswana. Botswana is a great place to travel, but expensive. Being a Peace Corps Volunteer I have a little bit of inside knowledge on things to do and people to use that is a little more affordable. This meant most of the trip planning and trip booking fell into my hands. I was able to get everything booked and set to go, but was still worried things wouldn't go so smoothly. This would be the first time my family had been out of the country. My parents have been to Mexico for a cruise before, but that isn't the same as traveling on your own in a foreign country. They were going to be in for a real adventure and I was super excited to show them a little bit of what I have been doing and experiencing this past year.

I got to the airport nice and early to make sure I was there when their plane landed. Gaborone airport has had some upgraded renovations since I had been there when I landed here in Botswana back in April 2010. It was looking pretty snazzy. As I was waiting for my family's flight to arrive, I got to watch Mrs. Obama board the Air Force One. She had been to South Africa and Botswana one vacation with the two girls the past week. It was an exciting time for Botswana. It was cool to watch all the security vehicles drive out to the plane and watch the plane take off. There was much commotion in the airport during this time.

Air Force One!!!

Finally my family's plane arrived! I got up and went to the window to see them get off the plane. I was ecstatic and basically controlling myself from jumping up and down out of joy. I am sure the people around me thought I was insane. Once they came through the gate I greeted them all with big hugs and tears were shed all around. It's a weird feeling to be with someone you love after you have been away from the for soo long. They were finally here in person and our trip together was about to begin.

The family getting off the plane :)

After picking up our rented car and exchanging some of the family's money into Pula we headed to the  Bahurutshe Cultural Lodge. I had been here during training and thought it would be a cool way for my family to learn a little bit about the Botswana culture. We got there a little later than planned due to the fact that it took longer to get our vehicle, but it all worked out. On the drive there the family was surprised to see goats and other cattle life crossing the roads, even main highways, wherever and whenever they liked. They also commented on how I talk funny due to my Setswanaized English. I had to  remind myself that I was talking to Americans and not Batswana. Lol! Once at the lodge my family really enjoyed the show and had many laughs, when they were told to participate. Afterwards we were fed some traditional food which they all enjoyed. Then we were off to stay at the Mokolodi Backpackers for some much needed R & R.

Mom smashing up some mebele

Learning how to shift mebele

The next day we headed to my village. On the way my we passed a few signs that would have a picture of a tree with a bench and say 5 km. They asked what that was and I told them it was a rest stop. They thought that was interesting and sure enough the next one we came to they had to get out and take pictures. In Mahalapye we stopped for lunch and groceries. We met up with a few other volunteers in the area and once again had some traditional food. My brothers really enjoyed the huge madombi, which are steamed dumplings. Then we were off to Machaneng. I cooked them pizza the first night, which they also enjoyed. The next day I showed them around the village and we went to the preschool to play with the kids a little bit. We also went to the Primary and Jr. Secondary Schools to drop off some boxes of books from the Botswana Book Project. I also had them try some megwinya (fat cakes) which they throughly enjoyed. In the evening there was a braii at my house. I invited all the people I worked with in the village. There was tons of food, because all the people from the clinic brought traditional dishes for my family to try. In Botswana fashion all the food was gone fairly quickly. Luckily my family got to dish themselves first so they were able to try a little bit of everything, even the mopane worm! They were also very surprised and thankful for the many gifts the clinic staff got for my family. Of course they had to make speeches afterwards, which was funny to watch. My younger brother doesn't like to get up and talk in front of people but he did well.

Family with the Machaneng Clinic Staff

The rest of the family and the rest of the clinic staff

Playing with balloons at the preschool

Hanging out on the stoop

All the wonderful presents including the "Adventure Hats!"

Mmmm Mopane worms!

The next morning we drove over to Matlhako to see the library where I help out at and to deliver the rest of the books I had picked up from the Botswana Book Project. Then we headed over to Len and Marina's farm. They took us out on a couple game drives and fed us really yummy steak and potatoes. We all got to have steaming hot showers and sleep in nice warm beds.

Limpopo River

Waterbucks

The next day we were off to Nata to see the Makgadikdadi Salt Pans. We stopped in Francistown to eat some meat pies for lunch. We got to Nata Lodge in the afternoon, just in time to get on a sunset drive out on the salt pans. The view was breath taking and we got to see soo many flamingos that were bright shades of pink! The chalets we stayed in were very nice and apparently had really hot showers, but I didn't get to enjoy it because my brothers had used up all the hot water by the time I went to shower :(

Then we were off to Kasane. My Dad had been driving this whole time, doing a very good job staying on the left side of the road. Once you get past Nata the road to Kasane becomes a little rough. This is where my Dad decided to take a break and let my older brother try to drive. He also did a very good job driving. One in Kasane we had a little trouble finding the Serendipity Self Catering Lodge we were staying at. We finally found it and checked in to our rooms. The place was gorgeous and the lady who owned it was super nice. Then we got lunch at this really good pizza place and headed out for a sunset cruise out on the Chobe River. Originally we were supposed to be going with a different guide but I couldn't get a hold of him, luckily the owner at Serendipity had some contacts for other guides and we were able to get on a cruise at last minute. We got to see lots of animals, elephants, giraffees, steenbok, impala, crocodiles, water buffalo, and hippos among other things. The sunset was beautiful and my family really enjoyed it. Once home we cooked up some food. My dad really likes how they build their "grills" here, and he kept saying he wants to build one back in the states.

Fields of sunflowers on the way up to Kasane

Serendipity Self Catering

The next day we got up bright and early to head over to see Victoria Falls on the Zimbabwean side. Getting through the boarder was pretty crowded and crazy but we made it. It took us a little over an hour to walk around the falls. It was still high water season so we got pretty wet but the views were great when the mist cleared. After wards we went and had a yummy lunch at the Victoria Falls Hotel. My Dad and older Brother tried crocodile meat, Mom ate some warthog meat, while I had some ostrich. My younger brother wasn't as adventurous and stuck with the chicken. After lunch we headed over to the craft market. It was pretty crazy how aggressive the stall owners are at trying to get you to buy their stuff. They like to haggle the price and trade. They wanted everything from hair ties on my wrist to the shoes off my feet. My Mom and older Brother were great at bargaining and ended up with a lot of crafts and paying very little. David even traded one of his shirts off his back for something! Once back in Kasane we headed over to the Old House Restaurant for some yummy food.

Traditional Dancers

Victoria Falls Hotel

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Huge Hippo at the Craft Market...wonder how long it took to carve that?

Disinfecting our shoes to prevent the spread of Foot and Mouth Disease

The next morning we got up and were picked up by our safari guide to start our 3 day, two night safari from Kasane to Maun. We headed through the Chobe Safari, Savuti and Moremi Game Reserves. We did a lot of driving in those 3 days but we saw a lot of animals. We got to see zebra, giraffes, impala, various antelope, lions, bat eared foxes, jackals, lions, wild dogs, and a leopard! It was a true bush experience, not your typical high end safari, but sleeping in tents and cooking over a fire. On the first night as we were waiting for dinner to be ready we heard some noise and looked across the river to see an elephant chopping on some tree limbs. It was great entertainment for the night. The second night we got to listen to some lions bark and my Dad and two Brothers all tried some Chibuku (home brewed beer made out of maize). My Dad thought it was ok, but my Brothers both said it was disgusting. 

The elephant across from our campsite

Carnage from the lions

Bush pigs

Checking out the rock paintings

Yummy Chibuku!

Once in Maun we stayed at the Old Bridge Backpackers Lodge. Got some much needed hot showers and relaxed. The next day we had a long day of driving back to Gabs. We stayed at the Big 5 Lodge, where I stayed when I first arrived to Botswana. It was a little weird being back there again probably because now I have a different perspective on things then when I first arrived in Botswana. The following day we went and petted the cheetahs at the Mokolodi Nature Reserve and saw some hyenas. Then we ate lunch and caught the new Pirates movie at the cinema. I was pretty excited to see it!

Dad had to have a picture at the Tropic Of Capricorn Line

The next morning we packed up and my family dropped me off at the bus rank before they headed to the airport. It was sad to see them go and I had to fight off tears. All in all the trip went very smoothly. We only had a few blunders but it was all part of the experience. It was great to be able to spend so much time with them and I look forward to seeing them again in 9 months. I have missed them very much and am very fortunate to have been able to share this experience with them. I know they had a good time and will always have the memories we share from this trip.

Thanks for bearing through this incredibly long post! I need to learn how to either shorten my post or break them up into multiple posts....nahhhhh! haha

“The world is a book and those who do not travel read only one page.” – St. Augustine

Typing Extraordinaire!

 The past few weeks I have started teaching various clinic staff members how to type using the program Mavis Beacon. It's long and tedious teaching typing, but at least Mavis makes it a little more fun. Because I am teaching them one at time I get to have some one-on-one time with them, which is a great way to learn more about them as individuals. Sometimes I ask myself why I didn't try to do this earlier in my service, guess that's the procrastinator in me. Better now then never, right? As I sit and watch over my "students" making sure they are hitting the keys with the right fingers, I am reminded of elementary school when I used Mavis Beacon's program to learn how to type. Something as little as that reminds me of how fortunate I was to grow up in a country and at a time where computers were easily accessible and all around me. The clinic staff envy how fast I can type and I constantly have to remind them that I have been typing for years and that in time and with practice they too will be fast like me (although I am not really all that fast, maybe 60-70wpm, and that might be generous). 

Another staff member came into the caravan while I was working with someone yesterday and became super interested in what we were doing. After setting up a time to work with me later this week she then said "Refilwe, this is a really great initiative you are starting here".  Teaching people to learn how to type and use a computer isn't something I thought I would be doing here. Actually my knowledge of computers is not very high. The extent being a typing class in high school and a Microsoft Office class in college. To say I was an expert by any means would be lying. Actually when I told my brothers (one has a degree in computer networking and the other is just starting his college degree in a computer related field) one of the things I do here is show people how to use the computer they laughed!  When I first told the idea to my counterpart, it was mostly just so I would have something to do. I came here as an HIV/AIDs Health Volunteer, so I guess I thought that I would be doing more stuff that directly had to do with HIV/AIDS education and prevention. Don't get me wrong I have done some of that, but it seems I have found other needs in my community.

Botswana is a rapidly developing country. If you go to the bigger villages you can buy I-phones and other fancy electronics. Cell coverage is just about everywhere and with that internet comes. Even in my smaller village of less than 3,000 people we have two internet cafes. Pretty much all the government offices have computers, but the problem is no one really knows how to use them correctly. They were never taught how, let alone even taught how to type correctly like I was growing up. Through my typing lessons some of the staff realized that the way they learned how to type, if they had learned anything at all, was wrong (most of them do what I like to call "chicken-pecking" with their index fingers). They are surprised to find out that when you type the correct way you use ALL your fingers! Who would have thought? Even though technology is on the rise in Botswana, there is a lack of education in the technology field. Hence why even our Data Entry Clerk at the clinic (she is trained on the computer) doesn't even know how to type correctly or use Microsoft Word or Excel.

After the nurse said what a great initiative this typing/computer lessons project was, I realized that I was actually doing something meaningful in the clinic and it isn't something to just pass the time I have left here. If it weren't for me the individuals that make up Machaneng Clinic Staff might never learn how to type or use the different computer programs correctly. The computers in the clinic would then go to waste, even though they are a great resource. Once the staff is more knowledgeable in the technology at their hands it would benefit them in so many ways. Organizational skills would increase, they could go computer based with forms and records, no longer having to tediously write out charts and tables by hand. This would save time allowing them to tend to the long lines of patients. It might even allow them to make more time in their busy day to start up different support groups or classes within the clinic for community members to attend. The benefits and opportunities are endless. I just hope they will continue to use the skills I teach them when I am gone next year. 

"What you leave behind is not what is engraved in stone monuments, but what is woven into the lives of others." Percicles

She Was

It's been awhile and once again I am very sorry. I guess I am just not good at keeping this thing updated. I had internet issues, once again, got them fixed and planned on updating last week but my landlady died so I was pretty busy last week. Funerals in Botswana are a huge deal. If you haven't read my post Saturday's are for Funerals you can check it out to get the details on all that goes down when a person dies.

 Since it was my landlady who died, the compound I lived on was extremely busy last week and all weekend with people coming to pay their respects for the family and to help the family prepare for the burial on Saturday. I had been to a couple funerals before but this time I got the first hand experience of what goes on, because it was right outside my door. Let's just say this past weekend I didn't get much sleep. They make a lot of bread all week so the people from the community who help out with the cooking, setting up tents, bringing chairs, slaughtering goats and cows, and digging the grave can have some tea and bread while they help out. I helped make a lot of the bread, which was fun to learn. They make the rolls over hot coals. On Friday night they had a bunch of bread to make so they formed a type of oven using hot coals, sheet metal and cement bricks to cook the bread. It was really interesting. I also learned how to make megwinya (pronouced me-gween-ya), also known as fat cakes, which is this fried dough ate often here. That was fun but you have to be careful not to splash oil when putting the dough in the pot of boiling hot oil (I found out the hard way, being splashed with hot oil is not fun). 

Borotho (bread) ready to be baked

The whole week and weekend I was asked by various people about how Americans do funerals. They were surprised when I told them we don't normally slaughter goats and cows and the family members aren't making bread and cooking massive amounts of food for the people of the community who come to pay their respects. I also had to explain to them that because the US has people in it of many different cultures, traditions and backgrounds, funerals often very from person to person. Even within my own family my Grandma Warner and my Grandpa Skillings had very different funerals.

I ended up not staying up all night Friday night due to the fact that I am still fighting off some sort of cough so I went to bed around midnight to get back up at 5am to bath and head to the main house for the morning service before the burial. As I was falling asleep people were outside signing hymns into the night. It was actually kind of soothing.

Saturday morning the compound was packed with people. Botho's late husband was a kgosi (chief) of the village, so I think this had something to do with how many people were in attendance. After the burial we all headed back to the compound for lunch. I ended up having to use my own plate from house because there weren't any of the provided plates left there were soo many people. In the afternoon the family members met to discuss what will happen to the house and other matters that needed to be discussed. Sunday was the day of washing. All of Botho's things needed to be washed, including all of the already clean stuff, and soaked in this special herb. The Batswana believe that after someone dies all their things need to be cleaned to remove any essence of the person that is in the items. They soak these things in this special herb that helps to remove this person's essence.

I am sad to see Botho go but death is a part of life and I know she is in a better place now. She was old and suffering from pneumonia and bronchial spasms. I know she was in pain and now she is not. Botho was a very sweet lady and very welcoming of me. She would often sit out on the compound and bask in the sun (this is a common occurrence in Botswana, especially during the winter months when the insides of the houses are freezing). I would make a point to say Dumela to her as I came and went from my house. Most times I would sit and chat with her. Her English wasn't great but we somehow figured out a way to communicate with each other. I will miss these times. Please keep the Tshelane family in your thoughts and prays as they go through this process of mourning their loss.

R.I.P. Botho Tshelane. You will surely be missed.

"Say not in grief '(s)he is no more' but live in thankfulness that (s)he was'"

Hebrew proverb 

Trainings, Mma Obama, and Desert Races

So Mid-June was time for me to head to Gaborone for my Mid-service Training (MST). About half-way through service Peace Corps has all the volunteers come back together for some regrouping and medical checkups. I was actually really looking forward to this time because I had hit low in my service again and was excited to meet back up with my other volunteer friends and some volunteers I hadn't seen since my IST (In-Service Training) back in August. Also the hot shower and good food is always a plus! A few days before  MST, Peace Corps was having a second STEPS training for volunteers and their counterparts who qualified. Unfortunately my counterpart couldn't go but I was able to get in last minute. The STEPS training was only a day, but I felt it was a good training and gave me some new ideas on how to implement and use the videos in my community. I hope to bring forth these ideas to various community members and hopefully get some more screenings done in the next year. Since the STEPS training was a much much smaller group it was a good transition before the rest of the volunteers showed up. MST was..well MST. Some of the sessions were good and others not so good. I had a really hard time concentrating through many of our sessions. It made me wonder how I got through IST or even PST! Especially since MST was only 2 and half days. It was great to catch up with other volunteers and hear about how they were doing at their sites. Usually these trainings do come at good times, so I have to hand it to PC for that. Like I said I was in a low before the training but after talking with other volunteers I found out many of them were struggling with the same things I was, which makes me not feel so alone or bad about different projects not working out. I found out many of the other volunteers projects were affected by the strike just like some of mine. It also was a chance for me to reflect on the past year and refocus my goals on what I want to accomplish this next year. I think this was much needed for me, because sometimes I get bogged down by the day to day mundane things and often feel like I am not accomplishing anything, but when I step back and actually look back I have accomplished a lot in this past year.

Right before MST PC had told us that Michelle Obama would be visiting the weekend after our MST. At first they told us there would be no way any of us would be able to meet her. Our first day at MST, our Acting Country Director told us that PC had talked to the American Embassy and had got them to allow 50 PCVs and selected staff to come to the gathering that Saturday. She emphasized that this wasn't set in stone and that we could very well be uninvited at last minute. At first I didn't think I cared to go, but on the last day of MST when Heather told us they still needed a few more volunteers to sign up I went ahead and said that I would go. I mean it is a once in a lifetime opportunity and luckily I had accommodation for the weekend so that wouldn't have been an issue for me (the stipulations on us being allowed to go was that PC would not be able to reimburse us for accommodation or transport). So all of us eagerly were waiting for Saturday to approach. Many people had to go out and buy new clothes because this was an occasion where we would have to look our best. Saturday came and we were still allowed to go. A group of us were staying down in Kumkwane for the Desert Races (more on that later). We got up at the crack of down and headed back into GABS. Once at the Embassy we had to wait outside in the cold for a little bit until they started letting people in. Once they let us in the gates we had to got through security like at the airport. This was the real deal. All of us who said we wanted to go had to turn our social security numbers in a few days before so they could do some background checks. They checked our purses, camera, bags and coats. No fooling around here.

Secret Service and the Security Checks

Once through security we all walked back to the back yard of the Ambassador's house. The back courtyard area was gorgeous ! It was a very chilly morning luckily they had some hot tea and coffee and some heaters strategically placed so people could try to stay warm while we waited. Many of the volunteers staked out spots right at the front of the audience. I had a decent spot behind a few people with a good camera angle for pictures. When it was about time for Michelle to come out a lady came out to regroup the crowed. All PCVs were moved to our own roped off section on the other side of the podium. After resituating ourselves the US Ambassador came out to welcome everyone in attendance and introduce Michelle Obama. Mrs. Obama gave a speech that talked about how important America's relationship is with Botswana. She talked about how thankful she is for all the work the people in attendance do to keep that relationship good and strong. She said many of the sacrifices the foreign aid workers make are not recognized enough. She also gave a shout out to the Peace Corps Volunteers, which was loudly received. 

After her speech Mrs. Obama when around the workers and personally thanked them and shook their hands for the work they do. Then it was our turn! We only go a few minutes with her but she when around our group and shook many hands and again personally thanked us Peace Corps Volunteers for all we do. Then we got to get a group picture with her. It was a really cool experience and I am glad I was able to take part in it. I think it was also a much needed boost of encouragement for all the volunteers.

After meeting Michelle Obama, I went back to Kumkwane for the Desert Races. The Toyota 100 Desert Race is the premier off-road racing event held in Southern Africa. The race takes place in Botswana and a different course is laid out each year. It's a huge event for Botswana Tourism. People come from all over to watch the off-road trucks, bikes, motorcycles and other vehicles compete in this event. For more information click the link above. This year the race happened to fall on the 24-26th of June and the start and finish line was being held in Kumkwane (another Bots 9 volunteers village). With MST, Mma Obama and my family coming in on the 26th it was perfect timing for me to attend.

 There were a good number of volunteers from my group there and it was fun to cut lose and hangout with them. Sunday morning we got up to watch a few of the racers take off. It was cool to see and I kept thinking how much my father would love to come see this. We were standing near a turn, so every time a vehicle would go by dirt would fly everywhere. It was fun to watch. Some of the vehicles looked like they would be really fun to go four-wheeling in.  After we watched a few cars we headed back to the house to clean up and pack up. I had to get to the airport to meet my family! I was super excited!

We ourselves feel that what we are doing is just a drop in the ocean. But the ocean would be less because of that missing drop.

- Mother Theresa

The Past Month

Sorry I have been a little MIA with the postings. I had a pretty busy month involving STEPS Training (STEPS for Life is a program I have been trained in to facilitate screens of videos covering various issues with HIV/AIDS and then getting the audience to have  a discussion about the issues, all the videos are filmed in Africa), Mid-Service Training, Mid-Service Medical Checkups, Desert Races, meeting Michelle Obama, and traveling around Botswana with the family. All have many fun and entertaining stories which means I have some great blog post ideas! Yea!!!!  Just got back this past weekend and have been recuperating (I must have picked up a bug/cold somewhere) but will try to update with some of my post ideas soon!

Until then thanks for reading and thank you so much for all the love and support!

Oh and I will leave you with this pretty picture to look at :) Africa has the best sunsets!

One Year Left

As of today I have less than a year until I close my service here in Botswana and get to return home to the United States. The Bots 8 volunteers are packing up their things and saying their goodbyes as they prepare to leave this next week. The Bots 10 volunteers swore in earlier this week and have now moved to their sites. To think only a year ago I was doing that and just embarking on this experience and now I am down to the last year. Before I know it, it will be time for me to go. I just hope I will have made some sort of a difference in my village. The past few weeks things have been very slow. All the public workers have been on strike since the beginning of April. This is the first time in Botswana's history something like this has happened, so it is very exciting for the citizens, but makes it hard to get anything done project wise. I should relish in all the free time I have to sit and chat and form relationships with my community members or just reflect on the past 14 months, but the American in me still wants to be a busy bee and get as much accomplished as she can. The next year still feels like forever away but I know it will go by quicker than I realize, so I worry it will pass by and I will have done nothing substantial these two years I have been here. Once again I see why Peace Corps is a 27 month (26 months in my case) commitment. It really does take the first year or so to get integrated and acclimated to your community. I have heard from previous volunteers that after Mid-Service Training things start to pick up and you will have lots of projects to work on.

Speaking of Mid Service Training, mine is in a little over a week. It will be nice to see some of the other volunteers from my group I haven't seen since our In-Service Training back in August. This will be a time for all of us to reflect on the past year, recharge and dig in with new hopes for the next year. After the training my family will be arriving!!!  I am super excited for them to come and visit! It will be great to spend some time with them. I miss them soo much! We have a pretty awesome trip lined up. They will get to see my village (some of my friends here are eager to meet them), see some wildlife, and experience one of the 7th wonders of the world among other things. I will post updates about our trip when I get back.

"Finish everyday and be done with it. You have done what you could; some blunders and absurdities crept in- forget them as soon as you can. Tomorrow is a new day. You shall begin it well and serenely"

I also wanted to make a shout out of congratulations to my two brothers! Congrats on both of your graduations! I am so proud of both of you and I am terribly sorry I couldn’t be there to celebrate your accomplishments. See you soon :)